Wales: Sheltering from gales in Fishguard

Wales is a country of myth and magic. It is the Narnia of nations, outwardly tiny but viewed from inside it is huge, expansive, a wilderness where you could lose yourself for many years.  If dragons exist, they do so in Wales, the last stronghold of the Druids, still peppered with medieval castles and forts…

Crossing the Bristol Channel to Milford Haven

We left Cornwall under engine. The air was still, heavy and brooding as we motored along that final austere stretch of coast, passing Porthcurno and the Minac amphitheatre carved into the dark cliffs. All was calm but ominous blackening clouds, sitting heavy over the dark contours of Land’s End and the Longships rocks, carried a…

Goodbye England

Falmouth is a great town. A quirky artsy place with colourful bars, restaurants and cafes at every turn. It’s like a miniature Brighton with less pretension and a lot more boats. Its high street is lined with eclectic independent shops, selling art, antiques and a strange blend of hippy rags and yachting regalia. The people…

Tasting luxury in the River Fal

The Fal estuary in Cornwall is the third largest natural harbour in the world, fed by six main tributaries and 28 smaller streams and rivers. Its deep channel makes it navigable for big commercial vessels several miles upriver as far as Tolverne’s famous Smuggler’s Cottage and it has long been used as a safe haven…

Cornwall, Eng-Land’s End

There is something in the air in Cornwall. It is the smell of the sea, of faraway lands, of distant people living distant lives. It is the smell of the tropics, Caribbean aromas washed in on the Gulf Stream. Cornwall is not like the rest of England. Once you cross the Tamar you enter a…